Friday, September 28, 2012

Shallow Pockets Brimming with Swedish Cowboys

I GOT TO SEE CAITLIN!!!! In Sveeeden, no less. Honeybooboo is studying at KTH for the semester and she was sweet enough to play host to me in her new Stockholm.
Stocholm is: Clean. Quiet. Cold. Beautiful. Confined. Colorful. Black clothes. Blonde hair. Heeled booties. Lots of Swedish. Lots of English. No accents. Perfect genetics. Full heads of thick hair. Expensive. Antique. Fika. Cinnamon rolls and rolls and rolls. Cobblestones. Boats. Sea. Islands. Bridges. Cave-like subways. Mid-street trolleys. Serious. Nordic. Artistic. Athletic. And utterly and completely ruled by IKEA.

 The first night we dropped my things off at Cait's quaint little loft and headed out to the biggest nightclub in Stockholm. The name escapes me... it was probably in Swedish. Everything was in Swedish- which is so disillusioning when everyone speaks such perfect English. Makes you do a double take and think you've suddenly become illiterate!
Saturday was the first proper lie-in I've had in ages. It felt TREMENDOUS. Then we set off to walk the city so I could be a big ole tourist. Caitlin took me for fika which is a big thing in Sweden. Essentially it's a coffee break. But it's like a ritual. And a date. And it always includes food- usually sweets [good for you, Swedes!]. And it's marvelous. England only really has instant coffee... which is awful. I drink it everyday at work but it's just not the same as a good strong cup of joe. So thank you for that Sweden.
 THAT is Swedish cake. And it is HEAVEN with a side of powdered suga.

 
 Stockholm was on point with their window displays.




You can't quite see it but Swedes are obsessed with remaining outdoors no matter the temperature. Each cafe had a plethora of outdoor seating and every chair had a blanket draped over the back to snuggle into while you enjoy your meal. How damn thoughtful!!



When we were rounding the corner in a sleepy part of Stockholm we chanced upon this beaut: Stockholm's Western Store!!! Caitlin and I stopped dead in our tracks. American flags. Confederate flags. Western DVDs. Cowboy boots. Boots with spurs. Bolo ties. Dedazzled button-ups. Ponchos. Old time soldier hats. Where were we?!! It felt like Texas had swallowed us whole!
 



 
 We had a relatively quiet night with some of Caitlin's classmates, Wiebke [below] and Chris, and we made dinner, attempted to make some Kanelbullar [Swedish cinnamon rolls], drank wine and introduced the Germans to American high school culture via Mean Girls.
Chris was thrilled.

Thursday, September 20, 2012

Shallow Pockets Brimming with Fred the Red

It finally happened. I made it to my first 'football' game. And not just any old game, at any old place, but at one of the largest football clubs in the world. Hello, Man United! So nice to finally meet you, Old Trafford!

Adam and his family have season tickets for ManU, both for Champions League and Premiere League games [look at me dropping all of my new-found football knowledge on ya]. His mom had made other plans for the evening so Adam was kind enough to let me accompany him to a game vs. a Turkish club named Galatasaray [try saying that out loud, sheesh!]. For those who don't know, Manchester [United] is the Red Devils [see the little castle-age looking 'devil' in the emblem?] and their mascot is Fred the Red. Unfortunately the mascots don't get quite as involved as in American football but I did spot him briefly.


 I loved watching the fans before/during/after. Everyone was FOCUSED on football.
My first glimpse of Man United!!

 I loved that even in workingman's England the football stadiums still seem posh and royal. SIR Ferguson, Old Trafford thanks thee for thine money.
Man U ended up winning 1-nil and I so wish I could have sang along with the crowd! They have the most vile, ergo wonderfully fun, singalongs. Usually the subject of each chant was about other teams or other players- how personal [slash semi-flattering, I guess] is it to have an entire team's fan base take the time to write and then chant a song written just about you? There was this one heckler behind us that kept saying the most empassioned commentary. Overall it wasn't as crazy as games you sometimes see on the tele but then again it wasn't a massively important game. I'm crossing my fingers that I might get to experience the Man City or Liverpool game- I've heard those are straight up Green-Street-Hooligan-worthy.
Manchester after hours. I <3 MCR.
[But you will always be my first love, ATL.]

Tuesday, September 18, 2012

Shallow Pockets Brimming with Spandex and S'mores

Yesterday officially marked three months until I touch back down on American soil. New York, New York baby. That also means this experience has reached it's halfway point. And I have been a UK resident for a whopping 99 days. When you break it down like that it sounds like such a big number.

This trip has been... such a mixed bag. My idealization fell away in the first month. My loneliness and homesickness [though still occasional, of course] fell away in the second. But what major breakthrough has the third delivered?

Honestly that's something I've been asking myself for the past two weeks and I haven't been able to decide on an answer. I think, if nothing else, this past month has led me to be more conscious of... being.  I've been making an effort to be more observant and directive of my internal dialogue and it's been intriguing noticing how that simple consciousness affects my external presence and interactions and reactions. I know that's all very cryptic... Basically I, just like this adventure, am a serious work in progress.

Speaking of which- this past weekend was a handful of firsts for me on said adventure.

I recently started training with a club volleyball team in Manchester called the Marvels. Watching the Olympics got me all worked up about how much I missed just getting out there and moving and competing. It's been four years since I've truly played and it was like a breath of air getting back on the court [and finally being allowed to wear spandex in public again- girls at the gym don't find them to be an acceptable choice for work-out gear, I've learned]. After practice on Friday we all went out to a sushi restaurant to celebrate one of the girls', Marije's, birthday. I haven't had sushi since I worked at Maki Fresh months and months ago and man oh man my taste buds were a-quiver. And hello saki, I've missed you dear friend! Afterwards I met up with Adam and his best friend Johnny who were also out in MCR celebrating Johnny's last night before leaving for his police course at uni. It is tricky getting home before 6am from the city... lots of walking, double-decker riding and taxi-ing later and we finally crept back into Macc in the early hours. I wish traveling from Manchester wasn't such a chore late at night- I would happily spend so many more evenings there.

On Saturday my Jonny [not Adam's Johnny] took me to his hometown(s)- Stafford, the town his parents currently live in, and Penkridge, a small village inside Staffordshire where he grew up. We went for a run to Stafford Castle- because you can do that here, just run to castles- and I about passed out. Never, ever choose a marine as a running partner when you're already massively out of shape. Jeezeee I was a puss and a half. The castle was really cool to explore though. And what a view those aristocrats had!


Jonny's papa was kind enough to pick us up [for my benefit alone, I'm sure] and after a quick clean up we went around Penkridge and Jonny showed me the pub he worked in while he was at school. I tried his suggestion of pork belly with a pork scratchings topping and black pudding gnocci [just please look up the ingredients... I was being brave] but it was absolutely delicious. Oh and strawberry beer- wha?! A little too sweet for a night out but lovely for supper sipping.
After filling our bellies Jonny surprised me with a camping excursion! We grabbed some warm clothes and headed out. First things first though- I told Jonny he had to try s'mores if there was to be a campfire. They don't have s'mores in the UK, y'all! Nor do they have graham crackers... which proved slightly problematic but we improvised and, while not the best s'more combo I've ever had, it was still as nostalgic as can be.
Before we headed out into the woods Jonny tried to teach me how to drive a stick in the parking lot... MASSIVE FAILURE. I now very much appreciate my automatic, but I will conquer a manual someday! [No pictures of that... I think it was too traumatizing for either of us to consider catching the comedy on film.]

We went proper marine-style camping. We wandered through the forest in the dark and set up camp via a tarp, two mats and two sleeping bags. Rus-tic. Even though Jonny did most of [yeah, okay, ALL of] the heavy lifting I still felt like a bit of a badass perched on the undergrowth with my headlamp and my blanket of Jameson.



 FIRST EVER S'MORE! He liked them, even though the oat cakes were vile...
 

On Sunday I met up with Adam at Alton Towers- the UK's biggest theme park.  It was so very, very different to the Six Flag's and Busch Garden's of home. First of all, the park is built on acres and acres of wildly foilaged land. None of this selective planting in an asphalt jungle- it was lush and overgrown and magnificent. The land was once owned by a family of Earls and they erected a monumental house amidst beautiful gardens and swan lakes. Then the park company bought the land many years later and slowly added one ride after another to it, popping out of the trees and bushes, until Alton Towers was born. We didn't get to tour the home due to construction but it was IMMENSE! We did get to go on the ride that goes through a portion of the old house, though. The rides themselves were a bit short and line jumping is basically a capital offence but there were still plenty of coasters and lots and lots of people watching. Thank god for Euro-style. American theme-parkers are disgraceful.

 Slight detour en route.

 Aw, they make poor shleps dress up too! HEY SID HEY!!!

 One fraction of the house... unfortunately my phone was inadequate to capture it all.



Here's to many more 'firsts'-opportunities these final three months.

Sunday, September 9, 2012

Shallow Pockets Brimming with Kilts and Lilts

Scotland. The uppermost end of this little island. I've been absolutely itching to get up there to see kilts in action and shocking red hair and tinkling bagpipes and yards and yards of tartan. I met Jonny at the Elmsy shoot a few weeks back and we got on the subject and he mentioned that he'd lived up there for three years with one of his troops. He wanted to go back and I wanted to go, period, so we did.



Even at night Edinburgh was a sight to behold. We dropped off our bags at one of the most beautiful hotels I've had the luxury of staying in and we headed off to the city's pub center. The first pub we dipped into had a lovely Scottish couple that was full of stories and drink-sharing. And then the live performer came on and I knew we'd chosen right. The first song that came off the cords of his guitar- SWEET HOME ALABAMA, please&thankyou! He continued to play classics all night and we continued to try to sing along.
[You can see our Scottish friends, Eddie and Julie, at the very end of this sloppy little video.]


The next day we finally got to see the 'view' the concierge told us about. We had a rooftop garden out the back door of our room and from it you could see the ruins of a once great structure on the nearby hills or, over a ledge, a view of the city all the way to water's edge. It was lovely. 



We wandered the city for the morning just taking in the sights, browsing the shops, and constantly on the look-out for kilts.










 

Music was all over the city. Lots of bagpipes. Lots of drums. Lots of dancing. Between the backpackers and the performers, energy abounds in Edinburgh.



Then Jonny surprised me. I thought we were just gallivanting around the city but he had something else in mind- to scare the ever-loving shite out of me. He took me to a place called The Dungeons.


They have them in five cities all over the UK. It looks like a haunted house- with actors painted up to look like plague victims. But in actuality it's like an interactive history lesson, with a few boos and frights thrown in. It was incredibly interesting hearing about the ancient tales of the strange things that happened in Edinburgh centuries and centuries ago.
Then we went boozing.


We went to the Whiskey Experience- but that's false. It was scotch. Scotch is not whiskey. I love whiskey. Scotch tastes like smoked carcass with a side of throat burn. Regardless, we did come away with free snifters. Fancy, fancy.



 [I love the woman's face in this picture, hahaha. She chose to get the tasting like Jonny, instead of the cocktail, like me and her friend. Bad choice- Scotch is gross. And that cocktail was heavenly- couldn't even taste the scotch!]

Later that night we went to see a real bonafide rugby match at Murrafield Stadium! I've been dying to see a legit match and it was so much fun! Edinburgh lost, unfortunately... but the concessions were good, even if the mascot was a jerk.





I was sad to leave Scotland. Everyone says Edinburgh is a city of castles but you just can't understand the gravity of it until you're there. I don't think I saw one structure younger than America the entire time I was gaping. It was a beautiful, beautiful city full of friendly folks with fantastic accents. I might have to look into the master's programs offered by the university...

Then I can make friends with anyone and everyone I catch in a kilt!